Stellenbosch

Sadie Family Wines Unveils An Eye-Catching Array of 2023 Vintage ‘Distriksreeks’ Old Vine Whites…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

Tasting the new release whites from Eben Sadie is always one of the fine wine highlights of the year. With the 2023 wines now mostly safely in collectors’ cellars, I thought it would be a good time to publish my notes from a recent tasting at 67 Pall Mall in London where we drank these enthralling new white releases over dinner. Tasting is one thing, but drinking a fine wine is a completely different affair, allowing one to fully appreciate the wines.

As Eben Sadie showcases his new multi-million rand wine cellar on his Paardeberg farm, he has also decided to tweak his Old Vine Series range, renaming it the “Distriksreeks” or District Series, for reasons as he explains below.

“The South African wine industry, in a testament to its commitment to quality and authenticity, embraced the significance of origin in 1973. This commitment was further solidified by its enforcement through law, as the importance of demarcation and origin continued to grow. The districts, the most significant of these early demarcations, remain the cornerstone of the origin scheme. We essentially work with the following districts: SWARTLAND (Skerpioen, Pofadder, Treinspoor, Voetpad & Rotsbank, Columella & Palladius), CITRUSDAL MOUNTAIN (Skurfberg, Kokerboom & Soldaat) and last but not least, for good measure we work with STELLENBOSCH with the Mev. Kirsten vineyard. As time passed, we realised that our focus had moved to the regionality of the districts and their characteristics. We now want to highlight the notion of the individual terroirs rather than the mere age of the vines. The site will always be more important than any other singular condition.” – Eben Sadie

“This 2023 Rotsbank bottling displays match flint, almost crushed oyster shell aromas with grapefruit aspects. The wine is incredibly concentrated on the aromatics, and the tannins have massive tension. The wine’s substantial acidity and dry finish suggest that it will only benefit much from the time in the bottle. It is one of the most linear expressions of the year. It is a blue steel Chenin.” – Eben Sadie

Sadie Family Wines Die Distriksreeks Rotsbank 2023, 13.5% Abv.

Crystalline and star bright in the glass with a youthful green tinge, alluring struck flint reduction, crushed Granite minerality, crunchy green apple, and wet straw aromatics. Intense, linear, incredibly focused and precise with a big mid-palate breadth but a slightly clipped entry and finish in its youth. Give this time to fully flesh out and fill its frame. Drink from 2026 to 2038+.

(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

“For this 2023 Skurfberg vintage, we also opted to pick seemingly prematurely, as it is in the Citrusdal Mountains and shares the same seasonal dynamics. The physiology of the fruit seemed delayed, yet the wine also yielded 13.9% alcohol. The combination of the volume of the wine and the firm acidity makes for an incredible wine that is essentially built to last. The trademark granny smith apple, pear skin, and lanolin are very present in the aromas. The wine’s viscosity and volume, combined with the cutting acidity, suggest that this vintage has the mechanics to age incredibly well, like Kokerboom.” – Eben Sadie

Sadie Family Wines Die Distriksreeks Skurfberg 2023, 14% Abv.

Displays tight slightly muted aromatics. But notes of earthy bruised yellow orchard fruit, waxy lemon peel, savoury pithy grapefruit and crushed minerals fill the nose. Broad yet taut, fresh, intense and fantastically focused, the flavours are joined by white peach, pear puree, lanolin, wet stone minerality, lemon thyme and a hint of dried guava roll on the finish. Tightly wound but plenty more to come. Drink 2028 to 2040+.

(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Special neck tag on the Skurfberg commemorating vineyard owner Basie van Lill.

“The 2023 Mev. Kirsten displays limey, citrus and melba toast aromas being coated by a fresher aspect that spills over into pear skin and green apple pulp freshness that continues. The vintage’s trademark across all the Chenin Blanc vineyards is that we yielded full wines with beaming acidity and linear finishes. As a result, this is one of the more restrained vintages in character with incredible complexity. As always, the wine has a substantial volume and viscosity.” – Eben Sadie

Sadie Family Wines Die Distriksreeks Mev Kirsten 2023, 14% Abv.

The aromatics are packed with lemon and lime peel, green apple, dried green baking herbs, wet granite minerality and a hint of crunchy yellow peach. Full, rich, round and textural, the concentration is punchy, fabulously intense with a prickly acidity together with notes of quince, yellow apple, and a gentle herby fynbos finish. Simply superb. Drink from 2028 to 2040+.

(Wine Safari Score: 97+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

“The 2023 Skerpioen displays the usual limey and citrus flavours associated with the vineyard. This wine’s distinctive saline qualities, salty taste, and minerality are again prominent. The Chenin and Palomino field blend is very stable annually in its expression. The tannins and the acidity are slightly softer than in the last two vintages, and this vintage could be savoured earlier as the balance and mouthfeel are already very balanced.” – Eben Sadie

Sadie Family Wines Die Distriksreeks Skerpioen 2023, 13% Abv.

Taut, pristine and crystalline, this is a next level, top drawer Skerpioen release with notes of wet slate, rain on granite, over pear and white citrus nuances. The palate echoes the nose, beautifully crystalline and pure, vibrantly fresh and precise with taut linear acids, a glassy texture, and a long intense saline stony finish. Wow! Drink from 2026 to 2036+.

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

“This 2023 ‘T Voetpad displays limey, cordial, and citrus aspects with a racy entry point. The wine is firm and tightly coiled up, and it seems it is almost not ready to talk to us yet! It needs so much time. This vintage field blend is in perfect harmony, but we believe this will become one of the most age-worthy proponents. The wine is incredibly balanced and compact. We are looking forward to trying it again in 4 to 20 years to see where its development takes it.” – Eben Sadie

Sadie Family Wines Die Distriksreeks ‘T Voetpad 2023, 13.5% Abv.

A rich nuanced aromatics with plenty of wet straw notes, dried herbs, intense fynbos with a dusting of tea leaf dust. Medium to full bodied on the palate, deliciously joined up and harmonious, glycerol and fresh with tangerine, yellow peach and hints of yellow grapefruit on the long finish. A gastronomic marvel. Drink from 2028 to 2040+.

(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

“2023 Kokerboom displays the typical waxy, lanolin characters often associated with Semillon. For the second year running, we had very little rain in the Citrusdal Mountains, and the vineyard was in a stressful environment throughout the growing season. We opted again to pick the vineyard slightly earlier than what we naturally would be inclined to, and the wine still yielded 13,8% alcohol; notwithstanding its fresh appearance, it is mammoth wine. The tannins, acidity, overall texture, and volume in the wine are incredible, and we are in awe of the power of this terroir.” – Eben Sadie

Sadie Family Wines Die Distriksreeks Kokerboom 2023, 13.8% Abv.

A lovely expressive green apple and stemy aromatics with stalk spice, green herbs, thyme, sweet lemon, and delicious fynbos spice. Full and seductive on the palate, this is rich, intense and textured with herbs and spice, honied fig and apple puree.

(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The Sadie Family Wines are imported into the UK by FMV / Berry Bros & Rudd.

Thelema Mountain Vineyards Release a Tantalising Selection of New Stellenbosch Wines from 2021 and 2022…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

Thelema is one of the most famous estates in the Stellenbosch region and since 2015 has firmly returned to the top of their game. In many ways, the answers to rediscovering their newly energised glory have all been found by returning to the original terroir based principles which made this estate one of the most sought after brands back in the 1990s under the leadership of Gyles Webb.

Of course, while Thelema is proud of its acclaimed Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot legacy, they are not resting on their laurels, but instead are also championing one of South Africa’s new darling grapes – Grenache. The 2022 vintage is an exciting interpretation made from Stellenbosch fruit that looks set to rival some of the finest local expressions from the Swartland and Piekenierskloof regions.

Thelema Mountain Vineyards Merlot 2021, WO Stellenbosch, 14% Abv. 

An incredibly sleek, soft textured Merlot red that’s beautifully supple, delicate and generous with classical aromatics of red currants, liquorice stick, chocolate peppermint crisp, black berries, sweet cedar spice and stony graphite nuances. The palate texture is delicate yet precise, seductively light footed and sleek with silky red berry fruits, creamy powdery tannins, and a mouth filling breadth that’s weightless yet at the same time substantial. While this wine doesn’t possess the added structure of the Merlot Reserve cuvée, it’s still very suave, accessible and delightfully pure fruited. Drink from 2026 to 2034+. 

(Wine Safari Score: 92/100 Greg Sherwood MW) 

Thelema Mountain Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2021, WO Stellenbosch, 14% Abv.

The 2021 Thelema Cabernet Sauvignon represents another highly anticipated release from one of Stellenbosch’s preeminent producers. Four years from vintage, the 2021 is evolving beautifully, displaying aromatics that veer more towards the black fruit spectrum as well as a cool, sleek, disarming purity of black currant and damson plum fruits with floral layers of violets, sweet cedar spice and black berry herbal tea nuances. The palate shows a tightly wound weightless fruit concentration together with an edgy, tensile tannin structure intelligently framed by fresh, crisp acids that lend a real vitality and energy to the wine. A truly commendable vintage that offers a majestic sense of finely honed power and composure with a black tea and dried kelp infused finish. This is yet another cellar worthy classic. Drink on release to 2040+.

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW) 

Thelema Mountain Vineyards Grenache 2022, WO Stellenbosch, 14.5% Abv.

This Thelema expression of Grenache is fabulously sleek and charming, impressively polished and pinpoint with perfumed aromatics of violets, red bramble berries, raspberries, bay leaf herbs and minty milk chocolate. The texture is cool and polished, the palate weight light to medium bodied, showing impressive clarity and purity, spicy red berry fruits, hints of cherry cola, a deliciously tangy fresh acidity, and a spicy, silky tannin finish. A wonderfully vibrant Grenache full of panache. Drink now to 2032+. 

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Thelema Chardonnay 2022, WO Stellenbosch, 13% Abv. 

Always daunting following a vintage like the blockbuster Thelema Chardonnay 2021, but with the 2022 release, we have another substantial white wine that was aged for 10 months in 228-litre barrels of which 35% was new French oak. The aromatics are complex and utterly enticing, balancing notes of wet granite, pithy lemon peel, yellow grapefruit, freshly baked pastries and dried herbs before subtle struck flint reductive hints. The palate is crystalline, bright and fresh with a creamy vanillary oak spice that melts away gently into yellow citrus, candied green apples and tart white pear. This is a wine that will please a lot of Chardonnay drinkers with its classy oaking, crisp vibrant acids and its long, concentrated fleshy finish. Classic Stellenbosch Chardonnay done well! Drink on release until 2032+.

(Wine Safari Score: 93+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The Thelema Wines are imported into the UK by Enotria Wines.

Stark Conde’s New Single Vineyard Three Pines Syrah 2022 Rated and Reviewed…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

This premium estate in the Jonkershoek Valley of Stellenbosch continues to produce not only exceptional Cabernet Sauvignon based reds but also some incredibly seductive Syrahs. This 2022 single vineyard expression would have still been made by previous winemaker extraordinaire, Rudger van Wyk, who departed the estate at the end of 2023. 

The impressive Stark Conde vineyards are located in the picturesque and dramatic Jonkershoek Valley, a site with steep changes in vineyard elevation ranging from 150 to 600 metres making for a range of terroirs with distinct characteristics. At Stark Conde they stick to traditional winemaking methods using open tank fermentation, meticulous sorting of grapes, hand-punch downs, basket pressing and maturation in small French oak barrels.

One of the three pine trees overlooking the Syrah vineyard.

Stark Conde Three Pines Syrah 2022, WO Jonkershoek Valley, 14.5% Abv.

This new release spent 18 months in French oak, 40% new, as well as a portion in concrete. The aromatics are fresh and lifted, packed full of fragrant violets, purple flowers, blueberries, black berries, earthy currants, before deeper notes of hoisin plum sauce and savoury grilled meats. The concentration is notable, the glycerol mouthfeel broad and fleshy with a brûléed vanilla pod spice, a tangy creme de cassis concentration and savoury blueberry fruits over subtle brûléed mocha notes on the finish. Polished and suave, this is an impressive wine for the 2022 vintage. Drink on release and over the next 8 to 10+ years. (3,344 bottles, certified organic.)

(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The Stark Conde wines are imported into the UK by specialist South African importer Museum Wines.

Abrie Beeslaar Flying High Once Again with Two Exceptional New Fine Wine Releases…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

As of August 2024, Abrie Beeslaar ended a highly lauded tenure at the Kanonkop Wine Estate, calling time on his position as head winemaker there in order to focus on his own wine brand, Beeslaar, which he initially launched with his maiden 2012 Pinotage vintage back in 2013/14. The Krige family was very accommodating of Abrie and his own little “side hustle” and over the years the wine built up a sizable following around the world not least because Abrie was credited with producing arguably the most impressive modern-styled premium Pinotage in South Africa under the Kanonkop Black Label. 

The Beeslaar creation was made in an altogether different style to the Kanonkop Estate Pinotage, possessing a sumptuous elegance, textural softness and harmonious balance of sweet black berry fruits with the most intelligent and sympathetic oaking regime. In many ways, where the Kanonkop expression held more of a fleeting resemblance to a Bordeaux red in style, the Beeslaar always seemed to portray more of a concentrated Grand Cru Burgundy elegance. There are of course many premium styles of Pinotage produced in South Africa today, but there are certainly few that are more impressive than Abrie’s Beeslaar expressions. 

Tasting with Abrie Beeslaar in 2024 in Stellenbosch.

From 2020, Abrie started producing small amounts of Chardonnay as well, and with his 2023 release, we see probably his most accomplished expression to date. New vintages are due to land in the UK in early 2025, so keep an eye out for these exceptional new wines.

Beeslaar Chardonnay 2023, WO Western Cape, 13% Abv.

The 2023 Chardonnay from Abrie Beeslaar is the most distinguished expression he has produced to date and offers an enthralling opulence and intensity commensurate with the high-quality reputation of the 2023 vintage. The grapes, 65% from Barrydale and 35% from Banghoek, Stellenbosch, were sourced from vineyards situated on a mixture of shale and high-altitude granitic soils, which impart the wine with an exceptional sense of luxury and textural sophistication. After a period of 48 hours of settling, the juice underwent fermentation in a combination ceramic vessels and 225-litre oak barriques, 20% new, before being barrel aged on its fine lees for 12 months to impart additional complexity, texture, and mouthfeel. On the nose, the aromatics reveal an alluring melange of honeysuckle, white blossom, yellow stone fruits, pithy citrus, lemon peel, crushed granite and delicately leesy, biscuity dried herb nuances. On the palate, there is a beautiful sense of power and poise with mouthwatering layers of sweet pineapple chunks, Braeburn apples, vanilla pod, and yellow grapefruit with an intricate line of crystalline acidity before a final rasping wet stone phenolic mineral grip on the finish. A thoroughly accomplished wine that promises to drink well for at least another 6 to 8+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 94+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Beeslaar Pinotage 2022, WO Stellenbosch, 14.5% Abv.

Always one of the most impressive premium Pinotages produced in South Africa since its maiden release in 2012, the Beeslaar Pinotage has a style all of its own, boasting a soft, silky, fleshy concentration and lifted perfumed aromatics that are simply to die for. The 2022 release was fermented in open top concrete vessels with punch downs every two hours before being matured for 20 months in 225-litre French oak barriques of which 50% were new and 50% were second passage. The aromatics are rich, intricate, and complex with classical Pinotage notes of sweet violets, bramble berries, black plums, black cherries and notions of savoury cured meats and smoky chargrilled steaks dusted with Chinese five spice and bruleed mocha choc nuances. Abrie always has an expert knack of coaxing out the most seductively silky plush textured mouthfeel from his reds and this 2022 is beautifully soft and supple, sweetly fruited, and impressively concentrated with bramble berry fruits, crème de cassis, black cherry confit topped with picante black chocolate and exotic vanilla oak spice notes. True to the Beeslaar style, the concentration is focused and intense, the acidity refreshingly vibrant and the tannins silky, sweet and luscious. Pinotage of this quality needs a little time to show at its best and this 2022 is just starting to show glimpses of its true greatness. Drink on release and over the next 10 to 15+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The Beeslaar Wines are imported into the UK by South African specialist merchant Museum Wines. Retail prices are approximately £38pb for the Chardonnay and £48pb for the Pinotage.

Capensis – The South African Chardonnay Specialist Redefining Premium Quality Chardonnay in South Africa…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

Capensis, meaning “from the Cape,” is a relatively new prestige winery in the Cape that has emerged as a quality leader in bringing South Africa back to the forefront of world-class Chardonnay production. South Africa’s Western Cape can be called both the oldest wine region of the New World and the newest wine region of the Old World and Capensis skilfully combines these two facets — the oldest and the newest — of Western Cape winemaking. It embodies the unparalleled quality that comes from old vines planted in some of the oldest soils in the world, and it represents the young energy of a new generation of winemakers focused on making world-class wines with the help of state-of-the-art techniques.

With the end of apartheid in 1994 and the opening of the world export market, South Africa’s remarkable wine-growing potential slowly became better known outside the country. To realize this potential, top viticulturists brought in by the owners, Jackson Family Wines from California, began researching and selecting the best grape varieties for each site’s soils and mesoclimate. In the search for the best Chardonnay sites, the focus of Capensis has been on the Stellenbosch, Overberg, and Robertson regions in the Western Cape. Philosophically, Capensis say they are not limited to these regions – “the only limitation is the quality of the individual vineyard site.”

Capensis Head Winemaker, Graham Weerts

The Capensis Chardonnays are now made at their new South African winery fully owned by Barbara Banke of Jackson Family Wines in USA after South African partner Anthony Beck’s share was recently bought out and is produced from vineyards that were expertly sourced by renowned viticulturalist Rosa Kruger. The wine, since its maiden Capensis vintage in 2013, has always been produced by Graham Weerts, from vineyards located in Stellenbosch, the Overberg, and the Robertson region. Graham was of course based on the West Coast of the USA for many years, commuting back and forth during vintage time, but over our breakfast tasting at the end of 2024, he assured me that he is well and truly settled back in South Africa overseeing all the Capensis winemaking as well as the new Swartland Dalkeith Winery project, who’s new white release and maiden Syrah red release will be reviewed on the Fine Wine Safari in the coming weeks.

The Stellenbosch estate of Fijnbosch sits at 527 metres (1,729 feet) in elevation on clay soils on the high-elevation, steep terrain slopes of the Groot Drakenstein mountains in the Banghoek Valley with fynbos surrounding the vines, contributing to the Chardonnay’s exceptional natural acidity and complexity. The Kaaimansgat vineyards planted on Granitic soils in the Overberg, lie at an elevation of 757 metres (2,484 feet). Impressively remote and resting up in the mountains of the Overberg, the Kaaimansgat vineyards literally translate to “crocodile’s lair” and have long been used in world class examples of Chardonnay by producers such as Bouchard Finlayson and Leeu Passant.

Situated at 174 metres or 571 feet in elevation, rooted in blistered limestone soil, the 16 rows of vines in the E. Bruwer vineyard in Robertson produce grapes that contribute a rich texture to the Capensis Chardonnay, with abundant notes of peach and other yellow orchard fruits. The vines are trained in a method typically referred to as single cordon sprawl, which suits the site, which was primarily planted to Chardonnay Clone 95. Select additional vineyards located in the Helderberg and the Klein Karoo make up the total grape material available to Graham Weerts at harvest time.

Capensis Silene Chardonnay 2020, WO Stellenbosch, 13.5% Abv. 

Wonderfully floral stone fruits laced with lemon and lime peel, white blossom and grapefruit confit over dusty stony granite. The palate boast fresh citrus fruits, fresh pineapple chunks, grapefruit preserve and delicate biscuit leesy notes on the finish. Super elegant, mouth watering and deliciously fresh, pure and precise. 

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Capensis Silene Chardonnay 2022, WO Stellenbosch, 14% Abv. 

Sourced predominantly from younger own vineyard Banghoek Valley grapes. Vinified with the same philosophy as Capensis, fermented in oak, a small portion of 25-28% new oak with maturation for closer to 11 months on full gross lees. The aromatics are pure and bright, laced with lemon and lime cordial, dried herbs, lemon grass and a pithy grapefruit hint. Beautiful breadth and depth on the palate with a bold intensity, fabulous green and yellow citrus fruit concentration finishing with a silky, delicate lacy persistence. Light touch but very classy.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Capensis Chardonnay 2017, WO Western Cape, 14% Abv. 

Another very well made, focused, but incredibly intense expression of Chardonnay that is simply brimming with smoky minerality, lemon and lime confit, crushed granite, green citrus, honeycomb, and vanilla pod spice. Beautiful balance, massive intensity of fruit concentration, and a truly delicious symmetry of acid and bright citrus fruit. Very impressive from a great vintage.

(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Capensis Chardonnay 2018, WO Western Cape, 14% Abv. 

50%+ Fijnbosch farm fruit in the blend normally. Displays complex aromatics of savoury waxy lemons, pineapple, wet straw, grilled nuts, vanilla pod, lime cordial and a fine, stony vein of minerality. The palate shows a notable intensity of green and yellow citrus fruits, lovely translucent purity and a powerful but energetic length. Youthful, vibrant and very impressive.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Capensis Chardonnay 2021, WO Western Cape, 13.5% Abv. 

Blend of Fijnbosch, Barrydale (Klein Karoo), Robertson and Kaaimansgat fruit. Similar oaking regime with 32-33% new oak and multiple passage barrels. The aromatics show a fabulous lemon blossom and herby, savoury depth with green melon, lemon pastille and a beautifully integrated delicate oak spice that’s almost an afterthought. The texture is world class, polished, sleek, refined and incredibly crystalline and pure. A beautiful expression from a top-class producer.

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Capensis Fijnbosch Single Vineyard Chardonnay 2019, WO Western Cape, 13.5% Abv. 

Only three barrels of this maiden vintage Fijnbosch were produced. The aromatics reveal a deliciously attractive tangy, sweet and sour white and yellow citrus fruits that are firmly under-pinned by a seriously taut minerality. But the concentration with beautiful precision on the palate is phenomenal, combining intensity of fruit with harmonious balance and textural elegance. Such class and pedigree on display here that leverages the finest qualities of higher altitude cool climate Chardonnay.

(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Capensis Fijnbosch Single Vineyard Chardonnay 2020, 14.5% Abv. 

Total 130 x 12 cases made from a blend of all Chardonnay blocks on the Fijnbosch farm. Mostly sold cellar door, this wine showcases the property and its true terroir of Tukulu and Hutton soils with a sandstone overlay. The aromatics show beautiful lemon oil, sweet herbs, waxy Granny Smith apples and grapefruit confit notes with underlying savoury, leesy nuances. Plush, textural, and mouth-wateringly tangy, this wine shows punchy intensity, a piercing depth but also the most seductive, harmonious balance. Wow, what a wine!

(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The Capensis Wines are imported into the UK by Jackson Family Wines distributor, John E. Fells. The recommended retail prices are:

Capensis ‘Silene’ Chardonnay 2022, Stellenbosch (new vintage UK release) @ GBP £35pb

Capensis Chardonnay 2021, Western Cape (new vintage UK release) @ GBP £95pb

Capensis ‘Fijnbosch’ Chardonnay 2020, Stellenbosch (new vintage UK release) @ GBP £200pb

Holding Up a Spotlight to the Raats Jasper Red Blend in a Vintage 2021-2022 Taste Off….

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

As probably the most consistently highly scored Cape Bordeaux red blends from South Africa, Bruwer Raats has earned a global reputation for excellence with his MR de Compostella Cuvee. A wine that has never scored less than 93/100 points from any global critic since its maiden release in 2004, the more recent vintages have all graduated to a 95+ point spectrum of grandeur as the wines push the boundaries of quality and precision with every new release. 

However, on the odd occasion the MR de Compostella is declassified and not released, most of the component parts are normally blended into Bruwer’s unofficial second wine, the Jasper Red Blend. First created in 2010 when the MR was not produced, the wine proved so popular that it developed a life of its own in the market as a mini-MR for shoppers on a slightly tighter budget. The MR was only declassified a second time in 2019 and the Jasper Red Blend sold out in quick time again as you’d expect. The Jasper has however been produced every year since 2010.

So, with the 2021 vintage now being rated as one of the best quality red wine harvests in a decade or more, I decided to indulge in a little second wine taste-off between the Raats Jasper 2021 and the new current release 2022, both very accomplished wines. With a retail price well under £30 per bottle, this is a wine that over delivers vintage after vintage… which certainly makes it worth seeking out! 

Raats Jasper Red Blend 2021, WO Stellenbosch, 14% Abv.

I had the opportunity to taste the impressive Raats Jasper Red Blend several times during Bruwer Raats November tour of the UK to launch the Jasper Big Brother, MR de Compostella 2022. This impressive wine is a blend of 53% Cabernet Franc, 20% Malbec, 18% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot, all arrange in a most tight knit, harmonious assemblage. With the 2021 vintage reputation preceding the wine, this expression of Jasper has got to be one of the most eye-catching Cape Bordeaux Blends produced in SA. The fragrant lift from the 53% Cabernet Franc sets the tone for the wine, layered with black currant, sweet cedar, earthy red currant and lead pencil mineral spice. But it’s on the palate that the fireworks really kick off, tight grained and fabulously fresh, with silky sleek tannins, a weightless concentration of red and black berry fruits and a finish so electrically charge with tart bright acids that the sensors blow a fuse. The harmony and balance are simply astounding, combining with approachability, accessibility and a silky, finessed finish. If I was going to introduce a keen novice to the potential of affordable South African red wine classics, this Jasper Red Blend 2021 would be close to the top of my list. Drink now and over the next 10 to 15 years. (17,000 bottles produced.)

(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Raats Jasper Red Blend 2022, WO Stellenbosch, 14% Abv.

As always, the follow up act to a vintage like 2021 is a pretty daunting affair. But then I realise that Bruwer Raats is the king of pulling rabbits out of the hat, happy to declare high quality wines from off vintages and equally declassify wines from vintages like 2010 and 2019 that were fairly lauded in the Cape winelands. With the 2022 Jasper, a blend of 49% Cabernet Franc, 35% Malbec, 9% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3.5% Merlot and 3.5% Petit Verdot, we encounter an incredibly plush, luscious, approachable red blend brimming with earthy red berry fruits, aromatics of violets and sweet lavender, dried baking herbs and subtle notes of graphite and lead pencil. On the palate, the wine is medium bodied and plush, soft textured but also fleshy, creamy and deliciously accessible boasting toasty notes of black currant, damson plum and sour black cherries. A very compact and complete wine on release, this cuvee might not rise to the heights of the 2021, but in a funny kind of way, consumers desiring instant enjoyment now may actually love the 2022’s creamy opulence more than the bracing acid structure of the 2021. This wine simply gets better and better every vintage. Well done Bruwer!

(Wine Safari Score: 93/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The Raats Family Wines and MR de Compostella Wines are imported into the UK by Alliance Wines.

The Stark Conde Three Pines Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 Revisited…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

Stark Conde Wines was launched in Stellenbosch in 1998 by Hans and Midori Schroder with a focus on producing hand-crafted premium wines. Located in the picturesque and ever so dramatic Jonkershoek Valley in Stellenbosch, it is a site with steep changes in vineyard elevation ranging from 150 to 600 metres making for a range of terroirs with distinct characteristics. At Stark-Conde they stick to traditional winemaking methods using open tank fermentation, meticulous sorting of grapes, hand-punch downs, basket pressing and maturation in small French oak barrels for 20 months. The wines are then bottled without fining or filtration.

While winemaker Rudger van Wyk has now moved on from Stark Conde in 2023, he was certainly instrumental in establishing the Stark Conde Cabernet Sauvignon wines of the Estate Blend, the Three Pines Single Vineyard Cabernet and the Oude Nektar Single Vineyard Cabernet as some of the most respected expressions of premium Cabernet Sauvignon produced in Stellenbosch. The Three Pines retails in the UK for £44.99pb.

Stark Conde Three Pines Cabernet Sauvignon 2019, WO Jonkershoek Valley, Stellenbosch, 14% Abv.

The aromatics are dark and broody with piercing notes of violets, saline black currant, piquant black cherries, black breakfast tea and subtle hints of brown toast and sweet cedar before iodine and graphite notions. The palate is dense and compact, offering a medium to full bodied mouthful with plenty of dry extract and juicy black berry fruit concentration on display. The tannins are fleshy and sweet but also finely textured adding real substance to the wine without detracting from its sumptuous elegance and harmonious balance. A very precise wine that will appeal to all avid premium Cabernet Sauvignon collectors. Drink now and over the next 10 to 12+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The Stark Conde Wines are imported into the UK by South African specialist merchant Museum Wines.

One of South Africa’s Most Iconic Wine Estates Is Reaching for the Stars Once Again – Tasting an Exceptional Selection of Wines from Bellevue Estate…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

South Africa’s rich and textured wine history is being reinvigorated by several top classical estates that perhaps slipped off the fine wine radar during the late 1990s and early noughties in the face of a voracious young gun revolution, but which are now finding their feet again as well as the confidence to shout out about the incredible old vines in their possession and the exciting premium cuvées that they have been making of late. For me, few wine estates typify this characterisation more than the historic Bellevue Estate.

In possession of some of the oldest and most treasured old vine material of both Cinsault and Pinotage, Bellevue Estate has remained a bit of a ‘best kept secret’ in the wider SA wine trade partially due to the fact that they sell off small amounts of their incredibly sought after old vine grapes to some very famous producers in the Cape.

Tasting with Bellevue Estate Sales Manager Luan Aucamp.

I recently encountered some of their wines again in London at the Old Vine Conference Tasting 2024 and was blown away by both the quality and precision of their old vine Cinsault and Pinotage. So on a recent trip to South Africa, I took the opportunity to taste through a slightly wider range of their wines produced by Wilhelm Kritzinger who has been at the estate for over 23 vintages, and predictably, I was not disappointed!

Bellevue Estate The Reserve Collection Eselgraf Chenin Blanc 2023, WO Stellenbosch, 13.5% Abv.

Sourced from estate fruit in the Bottelary Hills from a single vineyard block planted in 1976 which is now Old Vine Certified. The yields annually are circa 1.5 tons per hectare which are fermented in stainless before being transferred to older oak barrels for four months with no bâtonnage and no extended lees contact, and finally racked back into tank to settle prior to bottling. Circa 4,000 bottles per year are produced from this 1.7-hectare block. 2023 represents the maiden release of the new Reserve Range, and before that, the grapes were being blended into the Bellevue Estate range.

This 1976 vineyard offers a tantalising snapshot into the complexities of old vine Chenin Blanc fruit that’s packed with lemon blossom, grated lime peel, white peach, crunchy green pear and orange citrus fruit aromatics over a pronounced dusty granitic minerality laced with dry straw and dried bay leaf spice nuances. The palate entry is deliciously tangy and fresh but also beautifully supple and harmonious with a sleek concentrated mouthcoating texture that shows poise and balance. The peach, quince and green citrus flavours are enticingly rich and intense, imprinting the finish with a truly powerful, fruit driven, honied persistence. An impressive Reserve white Chenin Blanc marked by its majestic old vine character. Drink now and over the next 10+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Bellevue The Reserve Collection Cabernet Sauvignon 2023, WO Stellenbosch, 13.5% Abv.

A bright vibrant expression of Cabernet Sauvignon from vines on average 30+ year old (block planted 1987), with all fruit picked and safely processed in the cellared before the late 2023 vintage rains arrived. The aromatics are rich and detailed, with lifted perfumed notes of violets, wet tobacco, cigar box, red cherry, and sappy red plum over classic black currant and mulberries nuances. On the palate the texture is taut and sleek, looking very complete and harmonious already with the 60% new 300 litre French oak well integrated with the sappy black currant fruit that’s well balanced by spicy, cedary fine grained mineral tannins and a sumptuously soft, refreshing acidity, with a kiss of cocoa powder on the finish. A very accomplished wine. Drink on release and over the next 10+ years. (Circa 3,500 bottles produced)

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Bellevue The Reserve Collection Cabernet Franc 2022, WO Stellenbosch, 13.5% Abv.

Bottelary Hills fruit from a Cabernet Franc block of around 4.36 hectares of over 24 years of age that is considered one of the best examples of Cabernet Franc in Stellenbosch (some of the fruit being sold off), with the 2021 release representing the maiden vintage and this 2022 a more than worthy follow-up act. Tank fermented after a three-day cold soak and then aged in 100% new 300 litre French oak barrels for 24 months. A dense dark opaque plum purple in the glass, the aromatics are rich and heady with opulent notes of sweet cedar spice, earthy black currant, black cherry and hoisin plum sauce, embellished with hints of pink musk and blueberry rock candy. The palate is incredibly dense and well-constructed with exceptional balance and beautiful cultivar typicity. The texture is elegant and sultry, tight knit and spicy with hints of tangy black currant, led pencil sapidity, and an underlying salty cassis-tinged intensity with a black tea and graphite complexity. A very impressive Cabernet Franc that shows a real focused power and prowess but also an incredibly elegant, harmonious precision. Wow, what a special wine! Drink now and over 10 to 12+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW) 

Pinotage was first cultivated by Prof A I Perold in around 1925 when he crossed Cinsault and Pinot noir. The first Pinotage cuttings made their way onto Bellevue soil in the early 1950’s when owner PK Morkel was attempting to obtain Gamay Noir for planting. He was not able to find the cultivar he was looking for and approached the Agricultural College at Elsenburg to help. He was advised to try the newly developed variety, called Pinotage. At that stage, there were no commercial plantings of this variety, only experimental vines cultivated by the college. In 1953, together with Paul Sauer from Kanonkop, PK Morkel was one of the first few farmers to plant Pinotage on a commercial scale. His bold step paid off, since Bellevue’s Pinotage was awarded the General Smuts Trophy in 1959, being voted the best young wine on the South African National Young Wine Show out of 1,800 wine entered. To salute the vision of PK Morkel, the Bellevue Estate takes utmost care of this 1953 heritage Pinotage block which is still in production today. It remains the pride and joy of Bellevue, and accordingly, a very special wine is made from this block, called Bellevue 1953 Pinotage.

Bellevue Estate The Reserve Collection Pinotage 2020, WO Stellenbosch, 14.5% Abv.

With such a legacy of fine Pinotage winemaking at the Bellevue Estate, there are no surprises that the Reserve Collection expression represents another incredibly accomplished red wine from the estate. The aromatics are bold and intense, boasting rich complex layers of sweet black plum, ripe mulberries, and sun raisined black cherries before notes of exotic Christmas spices, sweet clove, and sappy cedar nuances. In the mouth, the fruits are rich and creamy on the entry but also vibrant and tangy, revealing an energetic mouth-watering acidity framed by sleek, silky polished tannins. The palate is packed with blue and black berry fruits, black raspberries, and maraschino cherries making for a classically styled Pinotage that is both ripe and hedonistic but also incredibly accessible and generous. Plenty of winemaking know-how on display with this impressive red making it a perfect food accompaniment for charcuterie or chargrilled meat dishes. Drink now to 2032+.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Bellevue Estate The Heritage Collection 1953 Single Vineyard Pinotage 2020, WO Bottelary, Stellenbosch, 13.5% Abv.

The oldest commercial Pinotage in South Africa, that was submitted by the Morkel Family in 1959 to the South African National Young Wine Show and won best Pinotage out of 1,800 wines entered. That same ‘finished wine’ was later sold off to the Stellenbosch Farmers Winery (SFW) which then released that same 1959 vintage wine in 1961, being labelled under the Lanzerac brand that was still owned by SFW at the time. Currently, the Pinotage block is 1.85 hectares leftover from the original 2.7 hectares planted. After 3 to 5 days of cold soaking in tank fermentation commences. After tank fermentation, the wine is transferred to oak to complete malolactic in 300 litre barrels, being a blend of 1st and 2ndfill (circa 50/50) for 18 months. In 2020, 3,940 bottles produced, but the average is normally around 2,500 bottles per year.

One always feels a certain sense of nostalgia and pride when tasting or drinking a wine made from a vineyard that helped define a nation’s winemaking history over the decades. The aromatics on the 2020 vintage 1953 Pinotage are very individual and expressive, revealing a complex cornucopia of black berries, raspberries, spearmint, chocolate peppermint crisp candy bars, dried thyme, and sweet Christmas spices. On the palate, the wine is medium bodied but fabulously plush, textured and mouthcoating, with wonderfully fine-grained tannins that are enveloped by waves of sweet savoury black berry fruits, earthy mulberry, stewed strawberries, dried herbs, and damson plum nuances. The old vine majesty of this vineyard is on full display with this wine, where a rich intricately structured palate shows off its weightless concentration as well as its understated power and intensity, all packaged into a seamlessly accessible block buster of a wine with an impressively long mineral finish. Drink this icon on release or cellar for 15-20+ years.

(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Bellevue Estate The Heritage Collection 1952 Single Vineyard Cinsault 2021, WO Bottelary, Stellenbosch, 13% Abv.

The oldest Cinsault vineyard in South Africa is recognized as the Bason vineyard in Wellington that was registered in 1900 but was probably planted even earlier in the late 1890’s. This is followed by the famous Lőtter vineyard in Franschhoek planted 1932, that was for a while vinified by Leeu Passant wines, but which is now under the care of vigneron Lukas van Loggerenberg. There are apparently another two old blocks, one in Stellenbosch planted in 1950 and another in Wellington planted in 1951, and then the Bellevue 1952 heritage block, being the tie 5tholdest in the Cape winelands with a total of 3.8 hectares under vines. Similar to the heritage collection Pinotage, the grapes are tank fermented then transferred to oak barrels, 33% 1st fill / 33% 2nd fill together with 33% going into stainless steel tanks for circa 12 months of ageing before bottling. Spontaneous malolactic occurs in the barrels. 772 bottles were produced in 2021.

The Heritage Collection 1952 Cinsault is a truly majestic wine coming from one of the best vintages in the Cape in over two decades. The long cool harvest has helped preserve all the vibrancy, freshness, and integrity of the old vine fruit. The aromatics are classically fragrant and perfumed with an enticingly seductive red bramble berry fruit profile that shares multiple strands of elegance with top examples of young red Burgundy from the Cotes de Nuits, together with complex and compelling notes of wild strawberry and ripe cranberries, Turkish delight, rose petals, potpourri, wild garrigue herbs, fynbos and a granitic dusty mineral spice. While only medium bodied, the wine portrays an imposing intensity and understated power with tight knit fine grained mineral tannins, a beautifully integrated seamless acidity, and a wonderful pomegranate, blood orange and mixed berry laden length full of freshness, pink musk, and yet more Turkish delight nuances. A seriously profound expression of old vine Cinsault that delivers untold pleasures.

(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The Thrill of Large Formats – Tasting a 2003 to 2016 Vertical of Ken Forrester’s Famous FMC Chenin Blanc From Magnum…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

It has now been more than two decades since the maiden vintage release of the FMC was labelled as the Meinert Scholtzenhof Grande Chenin 2000. Always a wine with a very distinctive personality, a bit like producer Ken Forrester himself, the FMC represents premium quality Chenin Blanc concentration with more often than not a subtle complexing hint of botrytis characteristics together with a hint of residual sugar. Love it or hate it, the FMC is undoubtedly a striking expression of Chenin Blanc that has earned itself a massive global following.

Produced primarily from a vineyard planted in 1974 with no trellis system, the vines are grown in the goblet method as bush vines, with the vineyard producing very limited yields which are picked over multiple tries (or passes), with pickers passing through the vineyard 7 to 8 times over a 4-to-5-week window. The wine is then fermented with natural yeasts in large 400 litre French oak barrels and aged for 10 to 12 months before another barrel selection results in the best lots being chosen for the final assemblage.

While it is always a pleasure to taste with Ken, whether over a long lunch at High Timber, one of his favourite restaurants in London, or with his UK importer, you can rest assured that there will never be a dull moment (and also plenty of vino is going to be consumed!) What is a little less common, or indeed a true rarity and priviledge, is getting to taste a mini vertical of this icon South African Chenin Blanc over dinner … from Magnum format! We all know that wines age more beneficially in larger formats, and this was certainly an evening to prove this point. If you are not acquainted with Ken Forrester’s fabulous FMC, track a bottle down asap and indulge yourself with one of South Africa’s most premium hedonistic Chenin Blancs produced.

Ken Forrester FMC 2016 Chenin Blanc (En Magnum)

Beautifully rich and opulent on the nose boasting marmalade, grapefruit preserve, dried apricots and peach purée with complexing notes of wet straw, waxy yellow apples and incense spice. Fabulously unctuous and opulent in the mouth, this wine is bold, dense and overtly hedonistic showing pithy peach stone fruits, granitic minerality and a generous honied length. Simply superb expression of Chenin Blanc.

(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Ken Forrester FMC 2012 Chenin Blanc (En Magnum)

Impressively fresh and individual for a 12-year-old Chenin Blanc, the aromatics are fresh and precise with only very subtle tertiary hints of fennel root, red apple, white peach, passion fruit and a most deliciously harmonious, balanced palate that shows a regal coolness, sweet sour tangy acids and hints of caramelised green fig, granadilla and freshly cut green apple. A spell binding wine. Track this vintage down if you can and discover why Ken Forrester is so famous for his Chenin Blanc wines!

(Wine Safari Score: 97/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Ken Forrester FMC 2010 Chenin Blanc (En Magnum)

An exotic pithy peacock’s tail of aromatics reveals a complex, intricate expression of Chenin Blanc showing subtle Sauternes-like notes on the nose with layers of apricot, melted honey, white peach, and warm white toast. Complex, dense and plush with a compact core of yellow stone fruits, bright tart peach, tangy acids and a substantially dense broad palate. Beautifully youthful, vibrant, and simply astounding freshness. If I’m not mistaken, this is one of the vintages more heavily affected by botrytis.

(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Ken Forrester FMC 2008 Chenin Blanc (En Magnum)

A rich, waxy, savoury nose with layers of incense spice, bruised yellow orchard fruits, wet grey slate, and savoury earthy leesy notes of lemon biscuit, wet straw and oatmeal. Broad, plush, and creamy, the texture is fleshy and glycerol with incredible weight, gravitas and intensity but with a much softer, rounder, mellow mouthfeel than some FMC vintages.

(Wine Safari Score: 95/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Ken Forrester FMC 2006 Chenin Blanc (En Magnum)

Beautifully delineated aromatics showing burnt orange peel, honey, salted caramel, chamomile tea, tart blood orange, and a tantalising and invigorating tangy palate of tangerine, honeycomb, and piquant dried peaches. Aging beautifully, this is a regal Chenin Blanc expression that bares testament to the age ability of South African white wines.

(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

Ken Forrester FMC 2003 Chenin Blanc (En Magnum)

Incredibly age worthy and youthful on the nose is the first impression of this wine. Hints of dry straw, barley sugar, caramelised peach, dried fig and peach tea lead to a palate that’s incredibly harmonious and balanced, seamlessly silky and long. Simply stunning. Chenin Blanc is truly blessed with great ageing potential.

(Wine Safari Score: 94/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The Ken Forrester wines are imported exclusively into the UK by Enotria Wines.

The Meerlust Estate Reaches New Heights of Quality with Their Eye Catching 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Release…

~ Greg Sherwood MW ~ Leave a comment

Stellenbosch is Cabernet country and while much of the focus of the Meerlust Estate inevitably revolves around their flagship Meerlust Rubicon icon Cape Bordeaux Blend, this 2021 red is undoubtedly the finest expression of pure Cabernet Sauvignon I have ever tasted from the Meerlust winery. Perhaps produced somewhat as an almost after thought decades ago, this new release Cabernet Sauvignon is every bit as chiselled, refined and considered as the Meerlust Rubicon itself.

Produced from grapes coming from vineyards on mostly shale soils near to the river, this incredibly pure, intense wine was aged in 50% new French oak barriques adding the perfect gloss to this stunning single cultivar wine. The Meerlust single cultivar Merlot was often highly hyped by followers in the past partly because this wine became previous winemaker Giorgio Dalla Cia’s own pet project for many years in the 1990s. Finally, it seems Cabernet Sauvignon’s time has arrived. The “Kingdom of Cabernet” triumphs once again.

Meerlust Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2021, WO Stellenbosch, 13.7% Abv.

The colour in the glass is dark and inky with an alluring opaque black plum core and the aromatics are intricately perfumed and lifted with notes of sweet violets, salty crème de cassis, tart black cherry, spicy black plum and warm buttered brown breakfast toast over hints of dried baking herbs, graphite, chai tea and delicately sappy, leafy nuances. While incredibly focused, taut, and fresh on the palate, the fruit ripeness is simply pitch perfect, combining intensely concentrated notes of black currant and damson plum fruits with an electrically charged acidity that adds verve and vigour to the mouthfeel while remaining classically structured, linear, and mineral driven in essence. This is an incredibly accomplished pure Cabernet Sauvignon that firmly tips its hat to a ripe yet fresh vintage that stylistically you could easily see in top Bordeaux left bank Cabernet Sauvignon dominated wines. What energy, focus and intensity! Wim Truter has certainly made the most of this superb, slightly atypically cool, fresh Cape vintage. Incredibly good value, this is a mesmerising wine to drink from 2025 to 2040+, so don’t miss out!

(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)

The Meerlust Estate wines are imported exclusively into the UK by Maison Marques et Domaines (MMD).