Burgundy is full of talented wine makers, but every now and then, a new name comes along almost out of the blue, with incredible flair – this is Kei Shiogai – a superstar in the making. Originally from Japan, Kei left Tokyo to travel to New Zealand as he was so interested in Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. After a short spell there, he was strongly encouraged by locals to pursue his passion in the true home of these varieties – Burgundy – where studied viticulture and vinification in Beaune and Dijon.
Kei arrived in Burgundy and proceeded to work with several top producers including Philippe Pacalet, Domaine Rousseau and Domaine Roulot. Indeed, his earlier vintages in Beaune were produced while he was still working at Domaine Roulot. Even with his 2020 vintage, Kei started to turn heads and draw attention to his wines with their incredible elegance and purity of fruit produced from modest “village level” sites.
Kei is hard working, especially when it comes to taking care of the vineyards. The purposely low yielding vines ensure that he harvests only the best quality of grapes which he vinifies using whole clusters, without sulphites. He has a very precise vision of what he wants to achieve and is undoubtedly a perfectionist when it comes to wine making. His roots are subtly integrated into his passion and the knowledge and inspiration he gained from his various work experiences in Burgundy, can be seen in his own wines. This natural fusion combines with respect to the soils, while targeting the finest characteristics from each of his terroirs.
My first encounter with Kei’s wines was here in London, sadly not in Burgundy, where he operates out of a small but spotless cellar. 2021 was of course an incredibly small but high quality, concentrated vintage in Burgundy and Kei’s wines are simply astounding, explaining why he has acquired a cult following around the world in such a short period of time. From all accounts, his 2022s are even more impressive than his phenomenal 2021s, suggesting there is going to be a massive scrap to get hold of precious allocations. With wines of this quality, Kei Shiogai definitely deserves to take his place in the Burgundy hall of fame even at his tender young age.
Kei Shiogai Gevrey Chambertin 2021
A beautifully lifted, dusty, sapppy mineral led aromatics underpinned by pink flowers, wet chalk, crushed red cherries, wild strawberries and subtle petrichor notes. The palate purity is pinpoint, focused and intense, the saline red and black berry fruited concentration piercing, almost overwhelmingly so. Simply stunning for a village level wine.
(Wine Safari Score: 95+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Kei Shiogai Pommard 2021
Very classy effort shows beautiful aromatics of purple flowers, cherry blossom, violets and purple rock candy with subtle undertones of sweet sappy oak spice following to a taut, elegant palate with the texture of polished marble, a black berry intensity, hints of bramble berry and a sweet, pure, concentrated finish. A wine that really grows and puts on weight in the glass. Very impressive with all traces of Pommard rusticity banished.
(Wine Safari Score: 96/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Kei Shiogai Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Cherbaudes 2021
Majestically perfumed and lifted with hints of crystallised cherries, strawberry compote, wet chalk and a sappy, black bon bon fruited candied exoticism. Silky and soft textured, beautifully precise and pure with incredible focus, seamless harmonious balance and a long, lingering mineral finish. Positively regal and very, very impressive indeed.
(Wine Safari Score: 96+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
Kei Shiogai Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru 2021
After tasting this incredible wine, you can only conclude that the Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru vineyard can no longer be considered the poor cousin of the likes of Ruchottes, Mazy and Clos St Jacques. The perfume on this wine is simply intoxicating, overwhelming the senses such is the supreme intensity and florality on display. Seductive layers of sweet kirsch cherry, salty black currant, blue berry pastille and chalky liquid minerality tease the palate. Full, plush and elegantly fleshy, the mouth-coating intensity floors you with its sheer concentration, breadth and harmonious depth. Simply mind blowing in terms of young, pure, vibrant red Burgundy. A paradigm shifting wine.
(Wine Safari Score: 97+/100 Greg Sherwood MW)
The 2022 releases will be available in the UK from Wimbledon Wine Cellar.